The Difference Between an Overlock Machine and a Serger
In the home sewing industry the terms overlock machine and serger are used interchangeably, but there is a technical difference.
Let’s start with what an overlock machine is. This machine is designed to finish off the edges of woven garments and sew knits together. Overlock machines work using several cones of thread. An overlooper and underlooper encase the edge of the fabric while either one or two needles hold the looper threads in place. (It is also possible on some machines to have a 2-thread overlock stitch using only the underlooper and one needle.) In addition, a blade cuts the fabric as it sews so there will be a cleanly finished edge. Overlock machines are meant to be used in conjuntion with a sewing machine; they are not intended to replace it.
If you’re interested in finding out how to thread an overlock machine, get our book, Sew Fast Sew Easy, Sew On, All You Need to Know to Start Sewing and Serging Today! The book contains a more detailed description of the parts of an overlock machine, a step-by-step threading tutorial, as well as a great unisex T-shirt project.
Here’s an overview of what a typical overlock machine does:
A 4-thread overlock stitch is ideal for sewing together pieces of knit fabric (i.e. T-shirts). This stitch will give the seam a lot of elasticity so you don’t have to worry about the stitches popping and allowing the seam to open.
3-thread overlock stitches are good for finishing off the edges of woven fabrics. You can also do a rolled hem with a 3-thread stitch. (Make yourself a set of linen napkins, a runner or a table cloth with a rolled hem!) Here’s an example of a 3-thread overlock stitch using the right needle (Using the left needle will give you a wider stitch.):
And here’s a rolled hem. Notice how much narrower the edge is.
The 2-thread overlock stitch create a really delicate stitch for really lightweight fabrics like chiffon, organza or georgette.
Flatlocking can be used either as a decorative stitch in the middle of a fabric or as a way of piecing togther two separate pieces of fabric. You can choose to show either the “loop” side or the “ladder” side.
Example of the “loop” side:
Example of the “ladder” side:
Sergers have all the features overlock machines have. In addition, sergers have a fifth thread that creates a chain stitch, which is used to sew jeans together. Take a look on the inside of your jeans and you are likely to see it.
Some sergers also have the capability of making a cover hem (also know as a cover stitch). This stitch is seen most often as the double row of stitching at the edge of T-shirts hems , but can be seen as a 3 rows of parallel stitching. Having this feature in a serger can drive up the price as much as 100%. Another alternative would be to purchase a separate cover stitch machine or use a Twin Needle on a sewing machine.
Lastly, better overlock machines and sergers have differential feed systems, which means that there is more than one set of feed dogs. The differential feed controls how fast the feed dogs are working in conjunction with one another. The lower the number means the slower they are moving together; the higher the number the more quickly they are working together. If you want to create a simple gather you could simply put the differential feed on its highest setting.
Overlock machines and sergers are a great addition to any sewer’s arsenal of sewing technology. They make sewing knits and finishing off the edges of woven garments fast and easy, just the way we like it.
if a customer needs to have flatlock stitches, can we use the overlocking machine to get into this effect? is flatlock machine same as overlock sewing machine?
Yes. It is the simple adjustment on most machines of turning the far right tension dial to 7-9 and the top left needle to 2. It is important to note that you should remove the right needle and thread. This is a 3 thread function on the overlock machine.
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I just bought a Juki MO-623 for my wife she is doing a fashion design course would this be a good overlock for her when she is doing her projects? it is only a 2 and 3 thread. i know they are 3 and 4 threads but is this one good?
Since I haven’t worked on a Juki MO-623, I can’t comment on the quality of it. In genereal, I like the Juki overlock machines I have worked on.
The machine you have is ideal for finishing off the edges of woven fabrics. If your wife will be working on knits in the future, you may want to consider a machine that can handle four threads. A four-thread stitch creates a more secure seam than a three-thread stitch.
I just got a new Singer serger sewing machine, and new at sewing. My question is about the type of thread. I found Premium serger thread and Overlock thread. Whats the difference in these 2? I can only see a price diffrence.
I intend to make diffrent types of T-shirts and Tank tops. Gym clothes. Thbought with a serger these will be made ina better quality. My gym friends are already asking me to make some for them.
I will aporeciate the help on this!
Thanks!
Oz,
Oz,
Chances are the only difference is price. The premium thread may be smoother or a little softer. The key thing is that you get something that works for you! I usually use regular overlock thread myself.
Good luck with your projects!
Do you have any sort of discount relationship with the Fashion departments of local or nationwide schools?
Do you recommend a particular serger to Fashion students?
Someone I talked to at one of your local schools said she sees it as an advantage to students who do not have to always get to a lab to sew.
Mom O’
No, we do not have any discount relationship with any fashion departments.
As for recommendations, ee sell Juki overlock machines here.
Often students will have to use industrial machines in the classroom. Home machines are less intimidating. It is advantageous to have a machine to work on at home or in the dorm. The more practice students get, the better they sew. Also, if students can have their own machines, they won’t have to sign up for (or wait in line for) lab time.
I’ve a Juki MO 634. After 3 frustrating hours, I finally got it threaded correctly… I think. But, the tension is all wrong and can’t figure it out. I’m aiming for a narrow stitch. I bought this machine perhaps 12 years ago and haven’t used it for 10 years. The instruction manual is almost impossible to decipher. Any help out there. I’m using 3 threads, one needle.
Sorry to hear that you are having trouble.
The first thing I would do would be to reset all your tension dials to 4 and rethread the machine. Here’s an online guide to help. It’s important to thread you overlock machine in the order instructed. Always start with your upper looper and then thread your under looper. After that it doesn’t matter which needle thread you start with. Once you have brought the thread around the tension disk, be sure to hold both ends tightly and pull up. If your tension is off, it may be because it is not properly going through the disk. Work like you’re flossing a tooth.
When checking the tension on a sample you want to make sure that the upper looper thread stays on the top and the under lopper thread stays on the bottom. They should be meeting right at the edge of the fabric. If that edge is drifting to the back, loosen the lower looper tension by one number. It if it is drifting to the top, then loosen the upper looper tension. If the problem is that either of the loopers is loose, then check to make sure the thread(s) are in the tension disk. Once you have balanced the looper threads, then you can deal with the needles.
If you pull open the seam and the thread is loose, then you needle to tighten the tension on your left most needle. You can also check the under looper side of the seam for loops. The left side loops correspond to the left needle and the right loops correspond to the right needle.
You say you want a narrow stitch. I am wondering what kind fabric you are working on. If you are working on a knit, you need to use all four threads. The seam is usually about 3/8″ wide. Adjusting where your blade is can vary it. If you are using a woven (or want to hem a knit) you can take out the left needle for a narrower. To create a rolled hem you will need to make the tension on the under looper higher than the upper looper. Also your machine will have an adjustment for a rolled hem. I’m not familiar with your particular model. It may be a simple as shifted a knob on the faceplate or it is possible you may need to change the faceplate. Check your manual.
I hope this is helpful.